So I have made some pretty good progress over the past couple of weeks as you are about to see. I still have so much more to accomplish but it is all coming together and I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome thus far. 

Now for the picture's.......

So I started the frame for the exhaust system by centering the bolts in alignment with the 2" X 4" stud's within the wall and ratcheting into the studs.......

After making sure they would tighten all the way I then removed them and put the 7/8" uni-strut, that was cut to fit, up onto the wall to bolt down.......

I made sure that it was plumb and level as I did with each piece I bolted together.......

Once the main frame was installed I attached the cross beams that the exhaust fans would attach to. I had ordered some 45 degree uni-strut brackets on E-Bay but they had not arrived at the time I built this but it is sturdy enough to hold the exhaust fans without them. I will install them as soon as they arrive.

As you can see that I marked and placed 3/8" spring nuts which will match up with the mounting holes on the exhaust fans.......

Now for the exhaust fans. They are stainless steel. The white you see is the protective film that was left on by the manufacture. I have decided to use the top knock-out for venting purposes as the vent holes and louvers are already installed and awaiting attachment to the exhaust fans.......

I did not buy a kit but rather bought pieces of duct work to accomplish my goal.......

Once the pieces of duct were screwed together I used Great Stuff foam insulation to seal up the seams.......

I then installed the exhaust fans to the uni-strut frame that I had built.......

I then attached the vent ducts with the louver vents using steel flex hose and heat resistant ty-wraps.......

I then connected the power wires to the exhaust fans.......

And they worked perfectly.......

I almost was afraid they did not work as I had them on high. I soon found out that they were just that quite. They seem to be strong enough but if I find that they are not I will install what is called a in-line vortex fan which will be more than enough while using the same hoods. At this point I do not see me needing to do that though but it is an option.......

So now to install the ceiling grid and cut to fit the ceiling tile to fit around the vent ducts.......

And also the other side of the building as well.......

I then installed and bolted two pieces of strut to blocking that I had placed in the wall prior to sheet-rock to hold the weight of the main control panel.......

I want to take this moment to explain to some the workers of the hardware store I frequent just exactly what I was talking about and asking them for when I was looking for 3/8" spring-nuts. There it is laying on top of my uni-strut. It has a spring to hold it in place and those groves on top of it to grab the inner part of the uni-strut........

Like this.......

So one can install stuff like this.......

That panel does look awfully good in it's new home. It will look even better when it is in full operation helping make some really good beer. Or at least that is my dream.......

WOW! What a mess. Time to clean all that stuff up and get ready for the flooring.......

I have to make sure that I get every little piece of trash and metal off the floor before the sub-floor goes down.......

First piece of luan plywood underlayment goes down.......

Lots of sawdust to vacuum and sweep up as well.......

I used screws and screwed the luan down. Nails tend to pop up over time........

Then I laid the linoleum down.......

I carefully folded it back on itself until I could get the table moved carefully over to the other side of the building placed gently down onto the new flooring.......

Then using a pneumatic finish nailer I installed stained quarter-round molding around the base of the walls.......

I then used a wood filler pencil to fill all the holes made by the pneumatic nailer and also put a thin bead of silicon on top of the molding to seal it from any splashes making it's way down the wall and in behind the molding.......

I then installed my life safety grounding grid which will connect to the frame of the exhaust fans, the control panel (even though it is also grounded via the spa panel and the sub-panel which in turn is also attached to the ground rod system outside.) and last but not least, each kettle. Safety is always first whether one deems it over-kill or not I aim to get "Over" it and take the word "Kill" out of the equation. Pun intended.   ;-)

I then drilled and taped 1/4"x 20 screws to attach the grounding conductors to.......

I then drilled a hole at the base of the wall and ran a #4 solid copper wire outside to attach to yet another ground rod. I sealed the hole with Great Stuff and silicone. I also attached ground clamps that will attach to the kettles at the flat side mounts of the kettles handles.......

Hooray!!!!!

The 45 degree uni-strut brackets finally made it.......

That really sturdified (is that even a word?) the whole frame. Might be able to do chin-ups on it. Hehehehe Just kidding.......

Now time to get the conduit ran between the spa panel and the main control panel. I am running 1" EMT conduit. EMT is short for Electrical Metallic Tubing. It will have more than enough inner dimension to handle the 3 - #6's and a #10 ground as well as 3 - #12's for emergency control circuits. I started with cutting a hole in the lower left hand side of the panel and mounting a 1" myer's hub and a 1" seal-tight 90 degree flex connector.......

I then attached some 1" seal-tight flex and another connector and a "C" conduit body for wire pulling purposes. It would also serve as a place to pull the wire back to from the control panel if I for any reason needed to remove the panel to services it or change it out to another system altogether like a fully automated operators touchscreen interface with server and full internet access so I could operate any and all devices remotely from anywhere in the world. Hey! It sounds cool. I actually was already shown by one of my work acquaintances just how to do it. He had my logo up on his tablet PC and when he clicked on it this interface came up which showed my entire schematic and he was able to turn things off and on and manipulate the PID's for temperature as well. What a fun toy that would be. One of those items to place on the bucket list for when I win the lotto.......

I then installed the 1" EMT connector on the other end of the "C" conduit body and installed 1" EMT conduit from the main control panel over and down into the top of the spa panel.......

Then pulled the wire.......

I then pulled the backing off of the cork squares and stuck them to the top of the brew stand. I sealed the seams with silicon. These should help protect the top of the brew stand from the heat.......

Then it was finally time to start moving the other items, which had been stored in the other building, into there new home.......

Two fermentation chambers and the lone one just out of view to the far right is the chiller chamber for the cold water used with the 40 plate heat exchanger........

Here we see that one holds two corny kegs and a 5gal carboy.......

and another one holds two 6gal carboys.......

I may also get a upright refrigerator that will hold a 15gal conical fermenter but that will have to wait for now.

And this, my friends, was a long time coming.......

I have to say that these bad boy's look pretty awesome in their new home and really makes me want to hurry up and get this build done so I can fire these bad boys up and get to brewing.

Now for another important part of the build. The fermentation chamber's control panel. What we have is a small panel with two Dwyer/Love TSS2 controller's and two duplex receptacles with the tab's broken off so each will be separately controlled for either the freezers compressor for dropping the temp, to a heat pad to raise the temp. The yeast are absolutely going to love these love controllers. (no pun intended).......

Well this is it for now. I still have plenty to do as I have to wire both the fermentation control panel as well as the main control panel and then put everything together. I still have to build a pump stand and install a 30gal. water bladder in the chill water chamber. But one thing is for sure, I'm a whole lot closer to brewing now than I was 6 months ago. Hehehehe.......

Happy brewing all!

More to come.......

Greetings all.......

It has been yet another month and I have yet to post anything. I haven't done much as work and the cold wet days.......

.......have kept me pretty much out of the building process but am hoping to get a few things done over this weekend. 

Here are a few pic's of what I have accomplished as well as my vision of what I am going to attempt to do over this weekend.

So as to my plan for the Acoustical Ceiling with a few minor changes.......

So I decided to go ahead and cut in the gable vents in each end of the building being that I was putting in an interior ceiling.......

As well as get started on the exhaust system. Here is where the few changes come in as trying to work the center of my exhaust hoods where I wish them to be over the kettles and have the exhaust pipes go up and out of the building missing everything else including the ceiling grid. I had to think a bit outside the box but figured it out just by changing the grid layout in that area. I cut out two 4" holes either side of the gable vent at the end of the building where the brew stand will be and installed to 4" vents for the two stainless steel exhaust hoods I have.......

The plan is to build uni-strut supports to hold both hoods over the kettles while being mounted as flush to the ceiling grid as possible. Here is a rough idea of what I have planned for this weekend. (DISCLAIMER: I am no CAD wizard and only have paint to deal with to attempt to show my designs. LOL).......

The exhaust hoods are the same as one would buy to go over their stove in the house. They have lights and two fan speeds. If they are not strong enough I will add a vortex fan in-line the exhaust pipes but I will wait and see how it goes first.

And last but not least, I did get to mount the spa panel........

 I will be mounting all the panels and finishing up everything that has to be done above the floor before installing the flooring as to keep from possible damaging it.

I do hope to post more often and will as I am able to progress with my build.

I hope and pray that everyone is inspired by my post with hopes that they too will come to this great hobby of Home Brewing.

More later.......

I haven't posted in a while and for that I apologize but my time is very limited with work as well with trying to continue to get as much done as I can to my brewery as I am very anxious to get to brewing.  ;-)

I got the drywall and flooring and got busy and so here is where I am at this point.

First of 14 sheets.......

Spray foam behind the outlets, switches and all other in wall apparatuses will reduce the cold and hot air to enter as well as conditioned air to escape.......

Now this was fun to cut. Also I used a couple of pieces of 2x6 for blocking in the wall where the second control box will go. Much smaller than the main one of course but it will house the temp controllers and receptacles for the two 7 cu/ft chest freezers for conditioned fermentation chambers. I may have neglected to speak of these babies. Oh well, SURPRIZE!!!!!!!

Didn't turn out to shabby after all.......

I think that deserves a 90 Minute break don't you?

Well here was the beginning of another day and I decided to have breakfast while working.......

In that corner is where the main control panel will be mounted so I had to do some blocking there as well.......

I always make sure that my electrical junction boxes are neat and all connections are twisted properly with the wire nuts on top just in case moisture gets in I won't have to worry about it getting on the connections and shorting out.......

There is the box I just showed you which will be feeding two stainless steel exhaust hoods. You can see the two wires hanging from above. I will be building a rack from uni-strut attached to the wall and right up against the ceiling grid to support them.......

Always mark all junction boxes correctly with where it is being fed from, what circuit and what voltage. I also like to mark each wire coming and going with what it is for ease of reference in the future. The panel schedule is also marked with the same identifications.......

Now here is another nightmare of drywall cuts I have to make.......

What we have here is a three gang wall switch, Blocking and wiring for the 60amp spa panel, the main panel, a duplex receptacle right under the panel, and last but not least is a plate with wire coming out of it at the upper right hand side of the main panel. What on earth is that for?

Well the guys where I worked thought that it would be cool to have something that would show when brewing was in process so.......

 But I'm not to sure what the neighbors is going to think about it.

Back to more drywall.......

Done! Now to tape and mud.......

Now for paint. I'm using a spray painter with three coats of Kilz 2 to seal the drywall against moisture, mildew, and mold and then 2 to 3 coats of a high quality high gloss paint for easy clean-up's.......

Make sure if you don't want paint on it then cover it up.......

 More later.......

I have decided to go with an acoustical lay-in ceiling. I feel it will be more versatile with my needs. Here is a rough layout of the initial grid plan.......

All ceiling tiles are 2' x 4' high moisture resistant with exception to those which will need to be cut down to 2' x 2' at each end of the lights. The ceiling tiles around the edges will have to be cut 4" smaller to make up for the width of the wall's. I will be using 2' x 4', 4 lamp, fluorescent lights. Haven't decided on the lenses yet as to whether to go with the polished parabolic or the regular plastic. In the small space I just do not see the need for the upgrade to the polished parabolic so I will more than likely stick to the regular plastic lens.

More later.......